Kikkogo Marudaizu Soy Sauce from Akiruno, Tokyo

Kikkogo Marudaizu Soy Sauce from Akiruno, Tokyo

$25.00
Sale price  $25.00 Regular price 
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Kikkogo Marudaizu Soy Sauce from Akiruno, Tokyo

Kikkogo Marudaizu Soy Sauce from Akiruno, Tokyo

$25.00
Sale price  $25.00 Regular price 

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Tokyo has one wooden-barrel soy sauce brewery left. This is it.

Kondo Brewing in Akiruno City — at the western edge of the Tokyo metropolitan area — is the only soy sauce producer in Tokyo still fermenting in traditional cedar barrels. Nearly a century of craft, three generations of family, and one unchanging method: whole soybeans, wheat, salt, time.

Highlights

  • Not available through major retailers — sourced directly from Kondo Brewing in Akiruno, Tokyo.
  • Tokyo's sole remaining wooden-barrel brewery: matured for over one year in cedar barrels (sugi-daru) — a practice that survives in fewer than a handful of producers across Japan, and the only one left within Tokyo.
  • Domestic whole soybeans (marudaizu) — just 0.2% of Japanese soy sauce is produced this way. The whole, unprocessed bean retains its natural oils, yielding a rounder, naturally sweeter flavor that defatted soy cannot replicate.
Details
  • Brand / Product: Kikkogo Marudaizu Soy Sauce(キッコーゴ丸大豆醤油)
  • Volume: 360ml (glass bottle)
  • Ingredients: Whole soybeans (Japan), wheat, salt
  • Additives: None — no preservatives, no artificial coloring
  • Allergens: Contains soy and wheat
  • Storage: Cool, dark place. Refrigerate after opening. See our full storage guide.
  • Origin: Akiruno, Tokyo
  • Vendor: Kondo Brewing Co., Ltd.(近藤醸造株式会社)
Producer's Story

The founder, Gorobe Kondo, established the brewery in Akiruno City nearly a century ago — at the point where Tokyo's dense western suburbs give way to the Akigawa river valley and the mountains of Okutama. The method he set in place has not changed in the hands of the second or third generations: whole soybeans and wheat are prepared as koji, combined with natural salt water, and left to ferment slowly in cedar wooden barrels — sugi-daru — for more than a year. No additives, no accelerants, no shortcuts taken at the cost of flavor.

What makes Kondo genuinely unusual is not just the wooden barrels — it is the insistence on domestic whole soybeans. Most soy sauce production in Japan uses defatted soy: the oil has been extracted before fermentation, which reduces cost and speeds the process but removes the natural fats that give whole-bean soy sauce its characteristic roundness and lingering sweetness. Just 0.2 percent of Japanese soy sauce is made from domestic whole soybeans in this way. Kondo has always been in that fraction. The glass bottle is a deliberate choice as well: it protects the aroma and flavor from oxidation in a way plastic cannot, and customers have been known to return empty bottles to the brewery for reuse — a habit that reflects the kind of relationship a century-old family brewery builds with the people who cook with it.

Cooking Ideas

A drop over sashimi or cold tofu shows you immediately what nearly a century of tradition produces — the umami arrives first, the salt follows quietly, and the finish is long and clean. Use it as a finishing sauce over grilled salmon or roasted vegetables, added at the last moment before serving so the cedar-aged aroma survives rather than cooks off. Combined with mirin and sake it makes a glaze that tastes nothing like bottled teriyaki and takes the same amount of time to prepare; the difference is the depth. For those building a Japanese pantry seriously, this is the bottle that changes the baseline — once you cook with whole-bean wooden-barrel soy sauce, the industrial alternative becomes genuinely hard to reach for.

Read the full story in Soy Sauce and the Inland Sea.

Read the full story in A Journey to West Tokyo.

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