Sweet white miso, a little sake, and mirin — three ingredients that turn an ordinary fillet of salmon into something worth looking forward to. The miso seasons the fish with gentle sweetness and savory depth. Cook it slowly, and the surface turns golden while the flesh stays moist.
Saikyo-yaki takes its name from the pale, low-salt miso associated with Kyoto. There is no glaze to brush on and nothing to reduce in a pan. You stir three things together, spread the mixture over the fish, and let it marinate in the refrigerator. Then a few minutes of gentle cooking, and the kitchen smells like a small celebration.
Here, each fillet is wrapped individually to keep the miso mixture close to the fish, then cooked in a frying pan lined with cooking paper.
Serves 2 · About 20 minutes, plus at least 30 minutes of marinating
Ingredients
- 2 fresh, unsalted salmon fillets, about 120g (4 oz) each
- A little salt, for drawing out moisture
- 50g sweet white miso, preferably Saikyo miso
- 1 Tbsp sake
- 1 Tbsp mirin
- To serve: steamed rice, with soup and vegetables if you like
We measure with a 15 ml tablespoon.
How to make it
- Salt the salmon. Sprinkle a little salt over both sides and leave for about 5 minutes. Pat away the moisture with a paper towel.
- Mix the marinade. Stir the white miso, sake, and mirin together until combined.
- Coat and wrap. Lay two pieces of plastic wrap on a plate or tray, one for each fillet. Spread about one-third of the miso mixture between them in a thin layer. Place the salmon on top, then spread the remaining mixture over the tops and sides. Wrap each fillet snugly, pressing out air pockets so the mixture stays in contact with the fish.
- Refrigerate. Leave for at least 30 minutes. For a fuller flavor, prepare the fish ahead and leave it overnight in the refrigerator.
- Remove the excess miso. Unwrap the salmon and gently wipe away the excess mixture with a paper towel. A thin coating can remain; remove any thick patches that could scorch. Do not rinse.
- Cook gently. Line a frying pan with cooking parchment trimmed to sit inside the pan — check the box says it can be used in a frying pan. Place the salmon on the paper before turning on the heat. Cook over low heat until lightly golden underneath, then carefully turn and cook the other side. Allow about 4–5 minutes per side as a guide, depending on thickness, and cook until the center reaches 63°C (145°F). Keep the heat low — the miso browns quickly.
Make it ahead
The salmon takes on flavor while you get on with your day. Wrap it with the miso mixture the evening before, refrigerate, and it will be ready to cook the next day.
For a later meal, freeze the freshly prepared, wrapped fillets in a freezer bag. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator, wipe away the excess miso, and cook as above. Discard the used marinade.
Tip
Choose a sweet, low-salt white miso for this recipe. White misos vary, and a saltier one will give a different result. Saikyo miso brings the gentle sweetness that makes this dish distinctive. White miso vs. red miso explains the difference.
The main thing to remember is the heat: keep it low, give the fish time to cook through, and let the miso develop a little color. With rice alongside, that is dinner.
